Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Self-Reflection: Black Out Korea.

There are a few huge blogs in the expat-in-Korea blogging community. I don't use the word "blogosphere" because I don't believe in neologisms. Also, it sounds stupid.

The biggest two are probably Ask a Korean! and Ask the Expat!. Others like The Grand Narrative, Gusts of Popular Feeling and Kiss my Kimchi spring to mind as well. My friend Breda (Annyeong!) was even ranked as one of the top Korean expat blogs by Go Overseas. So there's a lot of content on the Internet being generated about Korea, by foreigners currently living in Korea.

Somewhere up there you also have Black Out Korea, a blog devoted entirely to pictures of passed-out drunk people in the ROK.



I will admit, on a base level, it is kind of funny. Even to someone like me, with a sense of humor more cerebral than slapstick. Because once in a while, after all the shots of passed-out party-goers in Hongdae, you get utterly weird stuff like this:



which just transcends funny and becomes pure, sublimated surreality.

Early on in life, we all learn the important difference between laughing with and laughing at at someone. And usually when you're enjoying the results of someone's drunken shenanigans, it's the laughing at kind of laughing. This is the same kind of humor that drives pages like People of WalMart, LameBook, and Regretsy. Those sites all have their own thorny ethics to deal with, but they are also all people poking at other people within their own culture. (Cue the appropriate Seinfeld reference about "joke-telling immunity." Bonus points for Bryan Cranston prior to Breaking Bad or Malcolm in the Middle.)

When you get cross-cultural haw-haws, though, then it gets weird. Are you enjoying it from a position of privilege? Is there some underlying cultural thing going on of which you're (willfully) ignorant? Are you using humor to distance yourself from responsibility? Would this be just as funny intra-culturally? Did I just make up a new word? Anyway, here's the stated purpose of Black Out Korea:

Black Out Korea is a site devoted to the often hilarious situations in Korea that involve full grown adults blacked out in public, sometimes from 60 hour workweeks, but mostly because of Soju.

I've been to quite a few countries, but never seen this phenomenon like I've seen here in the ROK. So send in your best pics!


(As an aside, I do remember the blurb, in the version I initially read, talking about how South Korea is a country where adults typically get "utterly shithammered" or some such. I presume that the author has changed it as the blog has grown, and so I present you with the current version.)

Black Out Korea does not necessarily discriminate, either; you do find the odd assortment of blacked-out foreigners among the photos.



Note, though, that instances of the "waegook" tag are not as frequent as many of the others.

I'm inclined to distance myself from that kind of humor/attitude about Korea (at least I am now, not sure what year-ago-self would say). First of all, the laughing at style of comedy doesn't normally appeal to me, anyway. Nor does the slapstick, physical kind of comedy.

On a deeper level, to me it also belies a lack of respect for Korea, in a way. Not only on the "hah hah, he's passed out drunk, what a Korean" level, but in a more abstract sense. I think a not-insignificant portion of foreigners come to Korea and think of it as "College 2: Electric Boogaloo" and see it as less a country with citizens who are just as autonomous as themselves, and more of a giant playground with few rules and cheap booze. "We can party all we want, someone else will be there to clean up after us and take care of us."

I mean, it's one thing for your friend to get stupid-drunk and then pass out in a club. By all means, prank away and photo-document as much as you like. But a random stranger? Who has no chance to consent to this or establish a layer of rapport such that they would be okay with you doing this? Who doesn't have a way to contact you if they want the photo taken down? Also note that faces are almost never blurred in the photos; if they are, they're of foreigners.

This, coupled with America's military presence in Korea both historically and currently, suggests an unequal power balance and no interest to fix it. I think a lot of the submissions to Black Out Korea spring from that mindset, and that makes me uneasy. Mine, however, is certainly not the only take on it.

Your thoughts?

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Transfer of Power

It seems pretty clear that Kim Jeong-il is getting ready to step aside for his son Kim Jeong-eun. Back in January, Jeong-eun's birthday was declared a national holiday (source: the AFP). Then in March came the sinking of the Cheonan (which granted is arguable, but either way suggests that THINGS ARE AFOOT in the DPRK), and now this: a shrine dedicated to Kim Jeong-eun. According to the article, the official hand-off may come as early as September.

The all-knowing Wiki cites a lot of information about Kim Jeong-eun (alias Kim Jeong-oon, alias "Yeongmyeonghan Dongji" ["Glorious Comrade"]) from a former private chef to the family, who goes by the pen name Kenji Fujimoto and occasionally appears on Japanese television specials as an "expert on North Korea." Tidbits include:

  • "Jong-un is 'exactly like his father'"
  • "He has superb physical gifts, is a big drinker and never admits defeat."
  • When Jong-un was 18, Fujimoto described an episode where Jong Un questioned his lavish lifestyle and asked, "We are here, playing basketball, riding horses, riding Jet Skis, having fun together. But what of the lives of the average people?"


Mr. Fujimoto has written a few books on his tenure as chef to the infamous Kim dynasty; one of them will probably be next on my library check-out list.

Mostly I'm posting this because there are hilarious comments in the Yahoo! news article. They're not hilarious for their insight or razor sharp satirical wit, however; they're hilarious in a way that also kind of depresses you.

BRONZE MEDAL
From "RBT", a male in Cambridge, Mass:
I thought Kim Jong II son's name was " Mentally ILL ".

Hah! Hah! Hah! It's punny, get it? Hah!


SILVER MEDAL
From "I Voted Obama," a male from...somewhere:
Forget pissing off china, they have no oil, therefore little or no interest there.....

Clearly he is an expert on foreign policy, with such a nuanced, insightful view of a complicated political situation!


And finally, the

LOL'DGOLD MEDAL
From "Richard," male from Texas:
has anyone ever found it hilarious that these guys are Asian, but have the name "Kim"? Kim!, lol, i've never heard of an asian with a english name! KIM! LMAO!

Really, the comedy just writes itself with this one.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

DPRK Alert: Trip to North Korea!

My friend Mark posted this on Facebook; I'm passing it along here for anyone interested.

2010 DPRK (North Korea) Tour

Saturday August 14th to Sunday August 22nd, 2010

Sorry about the short notice need to fill about 3-5 more spots....
I will be fantastic! Many places I haven't been...

Including: Pyongyang, (Mass Games, Mass Dance, ect.) Nampo, Kuwol Mtn, Sinchon Village, Sariwon, Kaesong, Mt. Myohyang and more

From Seoul via Shenyang (or Beijing) to Pyongyang

Guide- Michael Spavor email - mpspavor@gmail.com

TOUR WILL INCLUDE:
Kumsusan Memorial Palace, Pyongyang Zoo, Foreign Languages Bookshop, Moranbong Park, Funfair, City Walk, Mass Dance (expected)

Fountain Park, Mansudae Grand Monument, Mangyongdae Native House, Pyongyang Metro (extended ride), Juche Tower, drive to Mt. Ryonggak for picnic, Chonsam-ri co-operative farm, drive to Nampo, West Sea Barrage, to Hot Springs Guesthouse

Drive through Kuwol Mtns, Sinchon Village, Atrocities Museum, on to Sariwon, Tour around Sariwon (folk street etc), on to Kaesong, Concrete Wall
Panmunjom/DMZ, Return to Pyongyang Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum, War Victory Monuments, USS Pueblo

Grand People’s Study House, Korean Revolution Museum, Monument to Party Foundation, Senior Middle School, Railway Museum, Metro Museum, Drive to Mt. Myohyang

International Friendship Exhibition, Manpok Valley Hike Return to Pyongyang, Circus, Kim Il Sung University Museum

*flight / train may be changed from Shenyang to Beijing if flights trains not available.
*itinerary may change slightly
* Note: American citizen's are alowed but will not be allowed to take the train out, they must fly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COSTS:
From Seoul to Pyongyang:
$2,500 USD per person
(Deposit for trip is $1400 USD)

Applications Due: Friday July 16th, 2010
Deposit Due: Monday July 26th, 2010

Once application is approved Bank Account Information in Korea will be offered.
These prices are the same for exit by train or by plane (option A. or B. in the itinerary)

Tour fee includes the following:
1. transportation from Seoul to the DPRK and back
2. all meals on the tour except on the train into/out of the DPRK
3. hotel accommodation
4. Korean tour guide(s) and a driver
5. all transportation in the DPRK
6. all entry fees for attractions such as museums etc in the DPRK

Not included in the tour fee:
1. single room supplement unless otherwise specified (EUR 30 per night)
2. spending money for drinks and souvenirs
3. DPRK visa fee (EUR 30 thru Beijing)
4. Double entry Chinese Visa From overseas Embassy / Consulate
5. tip for the guides (approx EUR 20-25 total)
6. meals on the train out of DPRK (EUR 5)
7. entry tickets for special events if applicable – for example Revolutionary Opera if being staged, or rides on the funfair, games of bowling
8. the lift up the Juche Tower has to be paid in the DPRK (EUR 5)
9. Optional Mass Games Tickets: Euro 80 100 150 300
10. meals will have a complimentary beer but you will have to pay for extra drinks above those provided (these are inexpensive though)
11. expenses while in Shenyang (or Beijing), China

For more information and application form contact:

Michael at mpspavor@gmail.com

(Ground Operator: Koryo Tours)

** All subject to slight changes

** NO JOURNALISTS, PHOTOGRAPHERS OR AUTHORS OF PUBLICATIONS ON NORTH KOREA

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Still Kicking!

YOU'RE NOT DONE WITH ME YET.

First of all, I have a tremendous post to do about Kim's Kitchen, which is fast becoming my default destination on my work-free days. But I think I'm going to wait until post-birthday-dinner (as if I would go anywhere else! Mm-mm, dak galbi, I've missed you) so I can have an excuse to take really dorky photos of the place.

But more importantly, I have swallowed hard, had a talk with The Boy, and decided that another year in Korea is the next step for me. My antics aren't quite over yet! I'm stoked to be seeing friends again and to get a second chance at everything I missed the first time: Busan, Jeju, the Mud Festival, at least one cave, and maybe even a visit to Dokdo. (Because Dokdo is ours, dammit!)

Plus there's lots of international trips I want to take, too. I knocked Indonesia and China off my list in 2009; maybe I can cross off Thailand in 2011? Maybe Japan, too, if I can get over my irrational aversion to Japan. (Thanks, weeaboos.)

I have been putting out feelers about job openings in Uijeongbu (because I would love to go back to my old stomping grounds) and while I don't want to count my chickens before they're hatched, I'm confident I can find something in the early months of 2011. Just gotta update the resume, is all...

Monday, May 24, 2010

It Begins with C, Which Rhymes With T, Which Stands for TROUBLE!

Right here in River City Bethlehem!

Or not really. While I was away in Korea, the iconic Bethlehem Steel mill was converted to a casino.


Before


After

No greater indignity has ever been done to a building or a piece of machinery than that poor steel ore crane. I salute you, relic of an America gone by; reminder of what we used to be.

Anyway, there's been a whole lot of fussing with this project, including hiring feng shui experts to make casinos (like the Sands and others in Pennsylvania, such as Mount Airy Lodge) more attractive to Asians.

I'll reproduce the story here, in case the link ever expires.


Countdown to Table Games
Pennsylvania's cash-hungry casinos are redesigning their floors to encourage an Asian invasion


Matthew Assad

matthew.assad@mcall.com


If you visit one of Pennsylvania's new casino table games this summer, you're likely to see a lot of eights, the tables won't be close to the door, and it may appear that whoever designed the poker room has an odd fascination with dragons.

That's because casinos are preparing for what they hope will be an Asian invasion.

"Asians like table games," said George Toth, president of Mount Airy Casino Resort, one of several adding tables with Asian players in mind. "They are good clients, and we want them to feel comfortable here."

More importantly, they want them to feel comfortable betting thousands of dollars—sometimes in a single hand—at Pennsylvania's soon-to-open table games, such as blackjack, baccarat and craps.

Some experts estimate that 25 percent to 30 percent of new table game players in state casinos will be of Asian descent, particularly at easternmost casinos with close access to New York City, where more than 800,000 Asians live, and New Jersey, which has an Asian population of nearly 700,000, according to the most recent U.S. Census figures.

Consider that Macau, China—not Las Vegas—is now the gambling capital of the world. Unlike Pennsylvania, Macau casinos are dominated by tables, not slot machines, because that is what Asian players prefer.

And no casino operator wants the wrong gaming floor design to give cash-carrying players the impression there is no luck to be had there.

No one has more riding on attracting Asian gamblers than Toth and Mount Airy. The casino has been among the state's worst performers almost since it opened in 2007, but Toth believes tables give him an opportunity to turn things around.

Mount Airy has brought in two designers whose sole job is to make sure the tables floor conforms to the theories of feng shui, the ancient Chinese belief that the proper design and placement of objects keeps the living and working environment in harmony with nature and the flow of energy.

When table games open in Pennsylvania this July or August, Mount Airy will have a special Asian room with 17 table games that include mini-baccarat, pai gow poker and pai gow tiles.

When players arrive they'll see a lot of 8s—a number feng shui followers believe portrays good fortune—and probably not many 4s, a number associated with death.

They'll see wall hangings and tapestries emblazoned with dragons and koi, and the decor will be draped in colors like red and gold, all emitters of good fortune.

The chandeliers will, of course, have eight hanging fringes, not four, and while the entrance to the room will be wide open, that opening will not continue unimpeded through the room. Screens or dividing walls will prevent the good energy entering the room from leaving too quickly.

"Feng shui followers truly believe in signs that represent good fortune and good luck," said Mount Airy interior designer Marcella Ravell, who has visited China and made two trips to Chinatown in New York to educate herself. "We intend to present a very lucky atmosphere."

But the effort doesn't stop with presenting an appearance of good fortune. Mount Airy will have eight daily buses into Chinatown, and its Asian room dealers will be fluent in Mandarin or Cantonese, said Edwin Chou, Mount Airy's director of Asian marketing.

That's right, Mount Airy has a special Asian marketing staff of people lured away from Atlantic City casinos.

And just as will be the case at Harrah's Chester Casino in Delaware County, Mount Airy will have a noodle bar buffet outside the Asian poker room. Willie Wong, Mount Airy's Asian player development director, noted the noodle bar has advantages well beyond the cultural benefits.

"It's a light meal, so they can eat in 20 minutes and get right back to the tables," Wong said, jokingly mimicking a motion of shoveling noodles into his mouth. "We want players at the tables having a good time."

Anyone who thinks casino operators like Toth are over-estimating what's at stake need only look back to the opening of the MGM Grand Hotel-Casino in 1993.

At the casino entrance, people walked into the mouth of a mammoth lion built to resemble MGM's corporate symbol.

But soon, casino operators realized Asian gamblers were avoiding their casinos for others on the Las Vegas strip.

It turned out that some who held Asian beliefs considered walking into the mouth of the lion unlucky. MGM quickly spent millions to reconfigure the entrance.

Toth may be taking the most extreme measures to attract table games players, but he's certainly not alone. When Las Vegas Sands opened its Marina Bay Sands in Singapore last month, it proudly proclaimed the $5.5 billion casino project "feng shui-approved."

Sands Casino Resort Bethlehem, Mount Airy's primary competition for the New York and New Jersey markets, also will have a feng shui-inspired Asian tables section and dealers who speak various dialects of Chinese. Officials there say they're upping the ethnic sensitivity ante.

"In addition to having no 13th floor in our hotel, there will also be no fourth floor," said Sands Bethlehem President Robert DeSalvio. "Four is not a good number in Asian culture."

It all may sound like a focus on culture and the mystique of feng shui, but at its heart, it's really all about dollars, millions of them.

Consider that Pennsylvania casino operators project tables games to boost casino revenues roughly 25 percent, and those in the eastern part of the state expect roughly 25 percent of their table players to be of Asian descent. For a casino such as Sands, that's an expected revenue boost from table games of more than $50 million year.

Carrying the formula through, that means Asian players alone could be responsible for leaving $12 million to $15 million a year on Sands' tables. And on top of that, Pennsylvania's table games tax, at 16 percent, is far less than the 55 percent tax on slot machine revenues, allowing the casino to keep a much bigger piece of the profits.

No casino wants to turn that money away because of a misplaced wall or the wrong color scheme.

"It's important that we show our friends in the Asian community the respect they deserve," DeSalvio said. "We want them to feel welcome."

Doing anything else would risk bringing bad luck to the bottom line.


I don't really know what to make of this article. Even if it is for cash, it's nice to businesses consider things outside the broader scope of their culture.

But it also does the "Asian just means 'Chinese'" thing you see all the time. (To be fair, sometimes it's "Asian just means 'Japanese,'" as well.) Most of the superstitions carry over from China to Korea and Japan as well, it's the part where the supposedly Asian room will have Mandarin- and Cantonese-speaking staff. No Japanese, no Korean. The clientèle they're hoping to attract is mostly Chinese (they run buses to and from Chinatown to the various casinos around here), so that makes sense. But then why call it Asian? Yeah, it's nitpickery, but Asia is really really big! Look at your RISK board, see why it's worth seven armies every turn? There's plenty of countries that aren't China. Aren't even close. If they're serving Chinese noodles and hiring Chinese-speaking staff to cater to a Chinese crowd, why not just call it the Chinese room? I'm reminded of back in the day when you used to be able major in "Oriental Studies." What? ("Asian Studies" isn't really any better, but at least in a lot of places now it's qualified as "East Asian Studies.")

I'm also not entirely sure that the article gives the right impression about East Asians and superstitions. ("Better watch out and make sure your casino's feng shui is right, or you'll scare away the ignorant Asians!") I mean yes, obviously it's a big enough concern that they're addressing it, but I think Koreans, at least, are in general about as superstitious as Americans are. Mina wouldn't write student names in red ink, but Kate would; I don't have a thing about the number 13 but I say "rabbit rabbit" at the beginning of every month for good luck. It's not like a compulsive "it makes or breaks my day" thing. It's a small, inconsequential decision I make. The same with an old Chinese guy spending his pension gambling: choosing one casino over another is a really small, inconsequential decision, and if you use non-rational means of making that decision, what does it matter? Of course, thousands of people making the same decision based on those same non-rational means will mean something for the bottom line of a casino. But it's not like all those old Chinese guys gambling away their pension are walking around with a ba gua, scoping out the best place to set up their new business or plant their vegetable garden, which is what the article seems to imply. But again: China and Korea are two different countries, so who knows!

The point that also bugs me is this statistic: "Some experts estimate that 25 percent to 30 percent of new table game players in state casinos will be of Asian descent..."

Yes, there's lots of Asians here on the East Coast, mostly clustered around New York City. But, and here's the big but, of Asian descent does not equal Asian. There's no shortage of second, third, etc generation Asian-Americans, not to mention the half- or quarter-Asians they may or may not be counting in this statistic. No mention, either, whether those numbers include East Asians who were adopted and raised by American families. The implication seems to be that the 800,000 "Asians" (whatever that really means to the people conducting these surveys) in New York City are all superstitious old fresh-off-the-boat ajossis and ajummas, and that being of Asian descent is equivalent to being terrified of the number 4 or playing blackjack in room with blue walls.

In any case, Asia-ing it up won't bring me to your casino, Sands. That's not a casino, that's a tasteless monstrosity.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Oh hi, Denny!

(A reference to the "Citizen Kane of bad movies," The Room)

Despite no longer being in Korea, I'm still here and updating. For one, since I'm considering coming back, I don't want to retired it quite yet. Also, I figure my teacher-buddies are SO TOTALLY INTERESTED IN MY POST-KOREA LIFE AND TIMES.

I hung out at home for a few weeks, then I hopped a plane to Stockholm to see my boyfriend:



Most of the time we spent bumming about Stockholm, which is one of my favorite cities in the world. I think it's absolutely gorgeous. One weekend we went out to Uppsala to visit his parents at their farm, along with his niece and nephew. And SHEEP! Very pregnant, fluffy sheep:







We also spent a few days in Finland, since it's so easy to get to from Stockholm.



Yes, we were ON A BOAT.



A fancy boat.

It was an overnight boat trip to get to Helsinki, a town small enough that you can walk the whole thing without much problem. We got off the boat at about 10 in the morning and made a beeline for our hotel on foot, taking in some of the city sights on the way.









We dropped off our bags and ventured out again, checklist in hand.

#1: The Finnish National Museum



#2: Tempelplatsens Kyrka







#3 Senate Square/Helsinki Cathedral





By the time we finished walking everywhere and seeing all we wanted to see, it was bedtime. The next day started with free breakfast at the hotel, and then the last item on our checklist, the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. We checked out, grabbed our bags, and wandered down to the dock where we could catch the ferry to Suomenlinna.







Then some shopping in the market, and we were ready to go back to Stockholm.



In short: A+ would do again.